December 29, 2022 · 6 min · 1143 words · Samuel Maille
The Anti-Aging Cut: Long Layers
“One haircut? ARE YOU KIDDING?! My hair is back to its health from my mid-30s.” –Alexandra Jamieson, 40, holistic chef and functional nutrition coach
Why it chops off the years: Serious hair loss is determined by a genetic lottery, but hair thins for nearly all of us after 40. Long layers make up for lost density by adding volume at the crown and sides of your head, says Eva Scrivo, owner of Eva Scrivo Salons, where the youth-boosting cuts in this story were done. (Lose up to 25 pounds in 2 months—and look more radiant than ever—with the new Younger In 8 Weeks plan!)
Best for you if: Your below-the-shoulder hair is dragging you down and making you look older, but you don’t want to lose length; face-framing layers add polish, Scrivo explains.
Ask for: Long layers throughout the hair, with shorter layers around the face that graze the lower cheekbone and end at the jaw, midneck, and clavicle. A few pieces snipped at eye level (as on Weisz, below) will draw attention there, Scrivo says.
Healthy hair tip: If you’re dealing with major loss, use a 2% minoxidil product like Kérastase Densifique Minoxidil ($35, kerastase-usa.com); hair will start to reappear after 4 months. For instant cover, sprinkle pigmented hair fibers like Keranique Fiber Instant-FX ($40, keranique.com) in sparse spots.
Styling secret: Keep this look modern, not ’90s chic (remember The Rachel?) by using a flat paddle brush to smooth the style after blow-drying with a round brush.
Celebrity inspiration: Penelope Cruz, Connie Britton, and Rachel Weisz
Alexandra’s hair styling was done by Eva Scrivo, owner of Eva Scrivo Salons.
MORE: The 10-Second Makeup Trick That Takes Years Off
The Anti-Aging Cut: Modern Shag
“I wouldn’t be surprised if this cut got me carded.” –Jean Tang, 46, founder of creative copywriting agency MarketSmiths
Why it chops off the years: After 40, hair gets finer overall (though grays, bless ’em, tend to be coarser and thicker), says hair researcher Paradi Mirmirani, a dermatologist at the Permanente Medical Group. The shag’s layers keep your hair from being weighed down by extra length and add volume at the root—and make hair look thicker, too, explains stylist Mario Russo, stylist and owner of Salon Mario Russo in Boston.
Best for you if: You’re too rushed to blow it dry. Sop up water from hair with a T-shirt, then finger comb it with a smoothing lotion like Oribe Smooth Style Serum ($49, oribe.com) so it won’t frizz, says Russo.
Ask for: A midlength cut with gradual, choppy layers around the face and slightly longer layers in the back. Anti-aging bonus: bangs, like Kerry Washington’s (or Jean’s, above), disguise prominent forehead wrinkles. Blunt, straight-across bangs work best on narrower face shapes, while sideswept fringe suits women with rounder faces, says Russo.
Healthy hair tip: Styling products that contain protein coat strands so they look thicker than they are. Try Toppik Hair Fattener ($18, toppik.com), a leave-in treatment that covers each hair with keratin proteins.
Styling secret: Get crazy full-looking hair—and play up its texture—by using a diffuser to keep your naturally pretty waves from getting blown stick straight.
Celebrity inspiration: Kerry Washington, Jennifer Lopez, Alexa Chung
Jean’s hair styling was done by Annie Rush from Eva Scrivo Salons.
The Anti-Aging Cut: Long Bob
“My husband said I look 10 years younger. He may be buttering me up, but I’ll take it!” –Keren Gilbert, 42, founder of nutrition consulting firm Decision Nutrition and author of The HD Diet (Rodale)
Why it chops off the years: Your hair’s outer layer becomes more fragile after 40, and a drop in keratin protein makes hair weaker and less elastic, so it will break rather than snap back when pulled or stressed. The long bob creates more bounce because hair is blunt and full at the bottom, making it look healthier and even giving it that little swing you might remember from your 20s, Scrivo says.
Best for you if: You want to go short but not really short. This longer-in-front cut is a happy medium. It’s also ideal if your idea of styling your hair is running your hands through it before you head out the door—this style will still look good even if your air-dried hair waves and bends at will, Scrivo explains.
Ask for: A long bob that sits just above or below the clavicle (no longer), with some layering at the nape of the neck and minimal layering in front.
Healthy hair tip: Use hot tools on the lowest settings and a shielding spray with heat-buffering dimethicones, like Tresemmé Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Spray ($5; tresemme.com).
Styling secret: Turn up the bouncy look by letting hair air-dry, then bending a few pieces away from the face with a large curling iron or flatiron to add polish.
Celebrity inspiration: Gwyneth Paltrow, Mindy Kaling, Nicole Kidman
Keren’s hair styling was done by Annie Rush from Eva Scrivo Salons.
MORE: 6 Ways Your Hair Changes After 40—And How To Fix It
The Anti-Aging Cut: Pixie
“Before I had breast cancer, I had thick, giant, rock ’n roll hair. This is the best it’s looked in 10 years.” –Lexie Shabel, 48, founder of breast cancer nonprofit Breast Wishes Fund
Why it chops off the years: A natural loss of fatty acids and keratin proteins makes hair ulcer and more vulnerable to damage, so things you’ve always done (color, heat style, etc.) rough up the hair’s surface and damage its inner cortex, too. What’s more, naturally wiry grays don’t reflect light as well as your once-smooth hair did. The pixie enhances shine and amplifies texture by lopping off the over-processed, damaged hair that’s been chemically and thermally attacked for years.
Best for you if: You’re a wash-and-go kind of woman—the lion’s share of the work this cut requires is simply washing and brushing it.
Ask for: A pixie (yep, it’s that straightforward) but specify that you’d like it to be soft, not severe, around the edges of the cut, and be clear about how long you’d like it to be, especially on the top, Russo says. You can also pair it with soft, side-swept bangs to give it a feminine edge.
Healthy hair tip: Run-of-the-mill daily conditioner protects your hair from wear and tear, but you should add a deep conditioning treatment weekly, too. If you can, wait a day or two between shampoos to take advantage of your scalp’s natural oils, Russo suggests. Brush your hair on these “off days” to distribute the oils and break up any day-old product in your hair.
Styling secret: Add even more shine—and youthfully tousled texture—by running a wax like Rusk Gloss Wax ($18, ulta.com) through hair with your fingers, says Russo.
Celebrity inspiration: Jamie Lee Curtis, Charlize Theron, Robin Roberts
Jean’s hair styling was done by Donna Tripodi from Eva Scrivo Salons.
